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"However, the agency took too long to act and ignored important public input that could have strengthened these standards.".

The chiles should just become dry, hot and aromatic; do not allow them to start really roasting or they will have a terrible scorched flavor.Remove from the griddle as they are done.

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Place in a bowl and cover generously with boiling water.Let soak for at least 20 minutes, then drain..In a small heavy skillet, cook the sesame seeds over moderate heat, stirring constantly, just until you see them starting to turn golden.

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Scrape the seeds out into a small bowl and set aside..Grind the canela, cloves and peppercorns together in an electric coffee grinder or spice mill or in a mortar.

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In a medium skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the lard over moderate heat until rippling.

Add the ground spices and cook, stirring, just until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.The menu leans Japanese, with shades of Tien's Vietnamese heritage and Latin-American experience.

Nasu dengaku, a classic Japanese dish of miso-glazed eggplant, reaches toward Mexico with chile-lime vinaigrette and candied pumpkin seeds.A strip steak with a dozen fried quail eggs nods to bò né, a Vietnamese breakfast staple he discovered while working in Houston.

His years in the American South show up, too, in the flaky biscuits standing in for pancakes in his Peking duck.Tien has devised a highly personal, individualized style of cooking that's as hard to categorize as it is to forget.